Monday
24th June
Today we
are revisiting churches in the Monti /Esqualine area but first,as the Trevi
Fountain had been absolutely mobbed yesterday, we decided to get up early and
find the Fontanina degli Innamorati (Lover’s Fountain) which is to the side of
the main fountain. It is said that those couples who drink from it together
will be faithful for life. We drank from it (just to make sure!)
Picked up
provisions from the supermarket on our way back to the apartment and prepared
ricotta pancakes with fresh fruit for breakfast.
Made our
way to the church of St Pietro in Vincoli which houses the chains that held St
Peter but also is famous for the tomb that Michelangelo created for Pope Julius
II. The tomb was originally meant for St Peters and was to have been far
grander. The statue of Moses is magnificent but we are more interested in the
figure of Rachel to the left of Moses whom, it is believed, that Michelangelo modelled on Felice della Rovere.
In fact this church was built by her father when he was Cardinal. To the left
of the church’s facade is the palazzo that Cardinal della Rovere inhabited and
in the garden behind he placed his collection of classical sculptures. When he
became Pope Julius II he transferred the collection to the Vatican and they
became the foundation of the Vatican Museums.
On to Santa
Prassede which has the most gorgeous mosaics, especially in the Chapel of St
Zeno. I just love these angels.
Finally on
to Santa Maria Maggiore but this time we go in to the museum to view the presipio
or Christmas crib that was created by Cambio in 1290, making it possibly the
oldest presipio in existence.
The connection with Christmas doesn’t end here as
back in the basilica, under the altar, is an urn of silver and rock crystal that
contains a piece of the holy crib.
After our
church visits we walk down Via Merulana & turn off to find Roscioli where
we hope to pick up lunch to take back to the apartment. We are not disappointed
as there is a marvellous choice from the tavolo calda.
After lunch
on the terrace we spend the afternoon chilling out, leaving again around 5.30
to explore the streets of Monti. We discover Podere Vecciano which stocks
products from a farm in Tuscany including olive oil & ceramics. I have my
eye on several souvenirs to take home.
Drinks in
Periodico Cafe , followed by dinner at Taverna di Fori Imperiale. This
restaurant gets mixed reviews but I had been persuaded to book it by Elizabeth
Minchilli, whose app ‘Eat Rome’ has been invaluable in planning this trip. I am
so pleased that we did book as we had a wonderful dining experience. Not only
was the food superb (my Pasta alla Romana with all the flavours of saltimbocca
was amazing!) but the staff were so friendly towards everyone.
And so ends
another day in the Eternal City.