Sunday
23rd June
We take the
bus across the river to Lungotevere Mellini in Prati and cappuccino &
cornetti from Antonini. The coffee & zabaione filled cornetti turn out to be
the best we have had so far – such a shame that the staff were quite snooty. Maybe
they were having an off day.
We walked
over the river to the Ara Pacis. The Altar of Peace, built by Emperor Augustus
is housed in a controversial building designed by Richard Meier and is the
first architectural work to have been built in the city since the Second World
War. I think it is a stunning building and love the way it allows everyone to
see the beauty of the Ara Pacis without visiting the museum.
However we go in
to see the detail of the friezes up close.
The museum
also has a model which shows the original situation of the altar as well as
explaining how an obelisk cast a shadow right over the altar on Augustus’s
birthday.
Although
the figure of Augustus is damaged on the frieze you can still make out Marcus
Agrippa as well as many other family members.
Outside the
museum, on the walls, is the Rex Gestae Divi Augusti – a list of all the
achievements of the Emperor.
Opposite
the Ara Pacis is the Mausoleum of Augustus which looks a little tidier than the
last time we visited. It would be great to think that this important monument
could be restored to glory.
In the
portico of the Piazza Augusto Imperatore a market is taking place. There are
some lovely pieces of glassware as well as table linens.
We walk in
the direction of the Pantheon then the Trevi fountain but don’t use a map in
the hope of discovering some little alley or street that we haven’t seen
before. This works as we stumble upon the perfect example of Rococo Rome in the
Piazza di Sant’Ignazio which is designed to resemble a theatre set.
The church
itself is completely over the top - Baroque at its best. I love it!
Apparently
there wasn’t enough money to include a dome so a fake perspective painting was
used instead. From a certain spot in the aisle the painting looks like the real
thing.
We have
booked Sunday Brunch at Baccano – a relatively new bistro near the Trevi. It
has a very French feel about it and whilst the brunch was good we think the
aperitivo would be better value.
After
brunch we visit La Citta del’Acqua which is literally round the corner. During
the renovations for the Cinema Sala Trevi in 1999, these archaeological ruins
were discovered and excavated. For 3 euro, you can descend the stairways to
view the remains of a 4th C Roman mansion, and part of a Roman street. Also there
is a cistern for the acqua vergine
which supplies water to the Trevi fountain.
Our gelato
stop today is Fatamorgana in the sweet little Piazza Zingari. We have flavours
that we have tried & loved before – Thumbelina (violet, rose petal &
almond) and Kentucky (dark chocolate & tobacco)
Back to the
apartment to change & then out to Periodico Cafe for aperitivo. We are
entertained by a group of drama students who each have a different story to
tell.
Dinner
tonight on our terrace – simply tomatoes, mozzarella & basil with fresh
bread but sitting out under the Roman sky it tastes as heavenly as a five star
meal.
